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LS1 Aluminum Drive Shaft
Submitted By: Mark42
Date Created: 02-22-2010
Description: The Firebird had an LS1 Aluminum Drive shaft installed: After changing the rear gears in the car from 3.08 to 3.73, the drive shaft ends up spinning much faster. This causes some vibration with the stock steel shaft. The solution is to install the high performance and better balanced aluminum drive shaft from a LS1 F-body. The LS1 shaft weighs about 10 LBS less than the steel shaft, so the weight savings can help offset some other performance parts added to the car.

I picked up this used 2002 Trans Am drive shaft and brand new GM universal joints for $75.

The end result is amazing. Smoother running, less vibration and even more surprising, is the the reduction in rear gear noise. I attribute the noise reduction to the aluminum not resonating sound as well as steel.

Dyno tests show a 3-5 hp gain by switching to an aluminum drive shaft. The gain is the savings in energy spent on spinning the heavy steel shaft.

The LS1 shaft weighs 11.5 lbs, and the steel shaft weighs 19.8 lbs. But the steel shaft is generally considered to be stronger than the aluminum shaft, as aluminum shafts will fail in drag racing applications with time. For a street car, the aluminum shaft is the way to go.
Related Projects: 1998 Pontiac Firebird Coupe
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    Differential and Gears Upgrade.
    1998 Firebird Headlight Modification
    (LS1 Aluminum Drive Shaft)
    Cold Air Intake
    Cat-Back Exhaust


Cleaned up the LS1 Drive Shaft.
Found this LS1 used drive shaft on a car forum for $75. The shaft came with two new-in-the-box GM universal joints. That was a nice perk, those GM U joints cost about $65 each and are much better design than the standard replacement joints.

After installing the new U joints, the shaft was wet sanded with 400 grit paper, then polished using a power buffer. Came out with a nice polished finish.

Here you can see the steel 3.8 V6 steel shaft is narrower than the aluminum. Otherwise they are the same length.
Old Shaft Out.


Yokes
The Yokes are the same.

GM Service Information says to coat the yoke spline and bearing surface with chassis grease before installing. I smeared a very thin coat of grease on the parts, then the shaft slid right into the tail housing with no problem. The shaft and lobes are wider than the steel shaft, so its a little tighter, but still plenty of room to install.
Installing new Shaft


Pinion Yoke
The photo is a little out of focus, but it shows the drive shaft U joint mating up to the rear axle pinion yoke. A little tapping from a screw driver handle was needed to seat the bearing caps before tightening them down.

That's it. The shaft is installed.

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