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Engine as is sits now
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The engine is hard to steer frozen up cable or king pin not sure just yet.
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This is the tilt/trim unit that came with the boat. It leaked down badly. I raised and lowered the motor then remove the bottom line. The fluid was drained and replaced. I used the 30 WT nondetergent oil as recommended by the Seloc manual for this type of tilt/trim. So far it seems to work.
Its been up for two weeks and is still not resting on the trailering bracket.
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Tilt/trim unit
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Had to loosen grommet
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Had to loosen grommet before I could remove cable. I got stuck here as usual though. the Old nut would not move passed the lip of the boat.
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I have never tried to remove or move the engine and I though this would be kinda hard. It was easier than I though. There are two bolts through the transom and 2 clamps at the top. I loosened the bolt farthest from the part I wanted to lift and removed the bolt that was closer. I then loosened the two top clamps. I was then able to wedge the engine up and clear the nut of the lip. I actually just pushed the motor to the port side and it moved up on the pivit bolt.
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I had to move the engine!
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Cable replaced
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The new cable was replaced. It was a foot shorter than the old cable but works really well. The motor was not frozen at all.
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This is a new rack from Uflex and works very well. It is a nofeedback design so I have lost my ability to move the motor from side to side at the motor itself. I will have to climb in to move it!
The hole had to be enlarged and three new holes for the securing screws but it fit and works.
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The new helm installed
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This is the old controller
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It has been hanging on that screw for a year now.
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This is the old cable I had to remove. The throttle cable actually broke or bent then broke. I will replace this.
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This is the old Cable
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The cable is now in the boat
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The cable was easy to get into the boat the end were a bit harder as I did not know or could find any information on how the ends at the motor worked. I know now!
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This is how the cable comes out of the box. You will see that there are 2 seals and 1 10-32 nut in it.
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The new cable out of the box
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This is the cable prepared
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In the UFlex controller instructions you need to remove the seals and the nut. This was rather easy as they just slide off and the nut unscrews.
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The cable needs to have a read for throttle and black for shift plastic piece inserted. These hold onto the cable with a copper U pin you bend the end and it holds to the cable.
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The cable assembled
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Trial run
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The is a trial run to be sure the pins and the cables line up in the nuetral positions. The eninge and shift were in nuetral on the engine first. And cable were attached there but not adjusted yet.
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The controller is now adjusted properly at the controller and the engine end.
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The C clips and srews are tightened
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This is a ball holder
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This hold unto the ball on the engine. If only I had know to slide the barrel in and release the cable this would have saved me enormous grief. And a trip to the home depot for a 10-32 nylock nut! $.88 and an hour later I was able to continue.
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If you look closly you will see the barrel on the throttle is not enguaged correctly. And notice the ball for the throttle? All you have to do is screw the barrel onto the cable then slide the barrel end up a bit and it slips onto the ball.
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The shift is up top and throttle is low.
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