|
|
 |
|
| home |
| |
shopping |
| |
contact |
| |
projects |
| |
Warning: Undefined array key "session_logged_in" in /home2/sap/public_html/header.php on line 612
login | | | join |
|
|
|
|
Engine tear down, reassembly and tuning
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Seal the crankcase
|
|
Clean the crankcase faces completely so they're free of oil and old gasket compound, including the area around the top main seal. Use acetone or chlorinated brake cleaner. Coat all the faces with a thin layer of the appropriate sealer, being careful not to get any on the crank's journals. Coat the outside of the top main seal with sealant and place it into it's final position.
While waiting for the sealant to set, lubricate the connecting rod bearings and piston skirts with TC-W3. Be careful not to get any on the sealant. I use a oil dispensing needle for this.
A note on sealants: The correct sealant to use is "Sealer 1000", sometimes known as "Marpox 1000", and is now distributed under the "Boat Armour" brand name. This is no longer available from BRP, so the suggested replacement is "3m #847 Scotch Grip Rubber and Gasket Adhesive", PN 776964. I am using Permatex Motoseal #1 Grey #38401, which is a very similar product. It requires a 5 minute setup period before final assembly.
Do not use any form of RTV silicone as it is intolerant to gasoline and will keep the crankcase halves apart slightly. The dark brown type Permatex appears not to be resistant to oxygenated fuels, and is too weak to be used by itself anyway. The above sealants I mention are all flange sealants, which will squeeze out any excess.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
All projects on Shareaproject.com are user-submitted and should be used for reference information only. The projects are not intended to be complete "How-To" articles. Use the information contained in these projects at your own risk. Projects are not checked for completion, accuracy, or safety and therefore cannot be guaranteed in any way.
Outdoor Blog
|
