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My toys
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this is the beginning of the mess!
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doesnt really look too bad. well i was wrong!
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inside (before deconstruction)
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after removing first floor
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the reason for no sag in the floor when i bought it, was because there was an extra 3/4" floor (to be replaced with 1 - 1/2" fllor)
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had about an inch of water in bottom after pulling out foam.
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wet foam
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end of day 1
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this was the easy part
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lots of fiberglass around foot rest
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foot rest and bow seats out
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rest of floor out
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notice the crushed drain pipe from the factory
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this is when i found out too much to do to have the top on
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taking motor off
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motor removed
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not fun to rotate from hoist to stand. built the stand from scrap lumber from dept store. even bout some bent 2x4 to help with the angle. total build = $25 - and five dollars for the wood, rest for wheels and screws.
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cant get the top off until about 1" fiberglass mixture is taken out
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inside bilge (not fun to try to pry apart)
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top seperated
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not fun - after getting long skinny chizel and trying to pound it up at avery point possible and then going outside with wide metal chizel. using jacks one under ladder brace, and one attached to cleat, and inching up until it was barely off the trailer. then using wide chizel and prying down it finally came apart!!!!!
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should have done this from the beginning. way too optimistic for this boat.
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now its topless
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nice water line
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now i can see why it has to be completely rebuilt
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strapped down and wyoming proof
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top secured
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before final grind
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stop the itch!
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makes me itch looking at it!!
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world of dust
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cleaned up nice
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looking better
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lots of cracks and crusty funk!
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flipped (time for improvement)
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i see white
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once over with razor blade for crusty funk, then wet sanded.
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i used marine tex and crazy charlies creaping crack sealer
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fixing major cracks and chips
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after 3rd time sanding
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time to flip back over
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kite string was used and five different measurents were taken from 41 different strings. this is what you have to do when inside is completely rotten
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designing floor and stringers
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making templates
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more kite string - i put posterboard with the bottom cut out and sprayed the top where the string is to get the line for a template
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this is first fit. i used 1/2" marine grade plywood
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look new wood
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first layer of epoxy
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used a rope through the drain hole and twisted it tight to pull the transom in.
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first intro to the wonderful world of fibergalss!
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fiberglass on edges
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fiberglass inside bulkheads
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soon it will never be seen again
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made from the kite strings
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floor template
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bulkheads filled in and sealed
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time to clean up foam
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starting to look like a boat
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back of seats
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epoxy on seats
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becasue its march in wyoming i have had to move the seats downstairs to epoxy.
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i should have rested them on dowels. did that for the bench seat. live and learn.
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grinding cardboard off seat bottoms
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gas tank brackets
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i didnt want to screw into the sealed floor under the gas tank, so after careful marking. i dunked the pieces into the epoxy, then layed the pieces of wood in a puddle of epoxy. followed by a generous amount of resin with thickner/fibers all around the sides and back. after there was a nice tack in the front of the pieces, i stuck the foam strips on them. the only screws will be on top of the pieces to secure the tank.
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glad pieces didnt move while putting epoxy down.
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gast tank fits
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prepped for paint
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no paint where there is a connection.
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notice the square pieces on the closest piece. that is how im going to put my seats and battery box in. it has 3/8" stainless steel t-nuts with scew screw holes on the round base. taped off the hole in the t-nut and drilled a 1" hole halfway through the piece of wood. then i put a thick epoxy with fibers on the bottom of the pieces and filled the hole, then pressed them over the t-nut. also notice the bracing on the middle piece. for the pedestal seats, ski locker, and table.
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bottom of floor ready for paint
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paint added
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since i could find no boat paint that didnt shine, i just used rustoleum. used 2 quarts blue one quart grey, and one quart white. wanted it to be a little darker. but its only seen under the ski locker.
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if you can notice on edges of stringers - i grinded off all the bubbles that made hollow sounds and filled them with a epoxy/thinkner/milled fibers combo. and i had to grind off all the fiberglass i had on the tops of the stringers becasue it bowed out fromt he edges. so after it got grinded i put a nice layer of epoxy on it all to seal it up.
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floor cut out seats made
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bottom of floor painted
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next step is to put the tank in and put the floor on!
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put 3m 5200 all along the tops of the stringers. i pre drilled the screw holes and filled with 3m 5200, then put the screws in.
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floor and gas tank is in
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top is on
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one time it is nice to see something no longer topless. i have to wait 5 to 7 days for the 3m 5200 to cure on the floor. i sure wish i could walk in there. notice the nails sticking out the rivit holes for a guide. one small gap in front (1/4"), that will be fixed once i can get inside.
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it took me a long time to fit these.
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dash pieces and foot rest
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dash pieces
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the passenger side was cut into two pices to be able to slide it inder the glove box.
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had to cut these into four pieces to have enough wood left for the cross member in between the seats.
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bottom side of bow seats
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bow seats in (no epoxy)
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had to piece the front of the driver bow seat bottom (running out of wood)
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its getting closer!
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i can almost feel the water!
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After its been on the water about 20 times. I LOVE IT!!!!
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front seats painted
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next is to put removable carpet in.
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non-slip floor
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view of back area without seats
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removable seats are wonderful!
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a few mods and the seats are sturdy. back right section had to be redesigned.
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removable seats in
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Not too bad
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sure do like the finished product.
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next is cosmetic fixes.
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with seats
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looking forward
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I love this boat!
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WOT at 8000 ft elev doing 43 mph. SUMMER FUN!
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43 MPH
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