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This is my 88 Citation Lazer 210 I have yet to see another Citation like it. This boat is fast 58-62MPH depending on conditions. However it is now time for a little TLC. After all this boat is almost 18Yrs. old.
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This is the rear of my "BEERACUDA" the outdrive was replace this year. I ordered from STERN DRIVE TECH. Price$ 1,200.00 this included shipping. My Mercruiser blew the forward gears and it was cheaper to buy a all "NEW" yes NEW outdrive from STERN DRIVE TECH. -vs- Merc. I run a HIGHT-5 Staneless 21p. No problems after Appx.30Hrs. of hard running this summer.
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Pic of rotted engine stringer. Going to pull engine and start the replacement soon. This past weekend my boys came over and replaced my 8'X7' garage door with a 9'X7'. The old header was a problem to get out, but afetr a few beers and the CHAINSAW! No problem!!!!!!!! Wow, should have been there! Talk about PWT! Now I can pull the boat and trailer in for Winter!
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After removal of gas tank. I'm going to replace the floor also! O-well, no big deal ! Just means a few more cases of beer.
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Cut out foam from first stringer. Now finding the the foam is wet on the btm., about 1" up. The center stringer that runs back to the engine stringer needs replaced/spliced in about 4' up.
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Cut foam out untill I found no more water. Seems that water got into gas tank area and sat at some point.
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Got her out and on the floor!
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This was my first time lifting out an engine. I used 6" bolts hardened #8 with washers and 2pcs. 5Ft. 1/4" Chain. Then attached a 2Ft. Pcs. of Chain using 2000lbs. locking "D". I made purchase at Depot for Chain and Hardware. Then I used A Cherry Picker to lift out the engine. Only clearded the 5' transome by 2". Once the engine was up, we pulled the boat forward. *** NOTE:Make sure you extend the legs of your cherry picker all the way out ! THe engine came out without any issues.
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I cleaned the oil out of the builge, and placed a propane heater inside to let things dry.
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Using an angle grinder I cut away the old fiberglass. I plan on reusing this to get correct height and position for the remount. The wood is like spounge.
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I dug out the old wood (it fell out). I started to get a bit scared because the wood was rotted right up to the transome. The transome is wet but not rotted at this point. I'm going to place a heat lamp over the area for a while.
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Laminated new portside stringer. This is the engine stringer that supports the port mount. I cut a wedge to match the hull and used 1/2 ply BC to get the proper height. I then put several coats of epoxy and used silica to bond the large pcs. The wood is dry fir? I think it has been in my barn since the 1920's. Nice and dry I just had to rip it down with the tabelsaw. I used the silica and then predrilled two holes and used exterior screws to he a tight press. I then filled the screw holes with silica and glassed.
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Still removing foam, this is a real pain !!!!
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Got some of the foam removed on port side. Cleaned out old wood and sanded old glass. Will use silica to set new wood into cleaned out hole. Using BC 3/4" reg. ply. figure if I paint with epoxy and glass over it will last.
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Zoom in on this image to show detail!
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Replaced stringers have some things I learned to pass on.
1) Need table saw measure hull angel and cut btm of stringer to match. this is the only way to get a good solid fit.
2) Find some good dry hard wood. I got luck, the old lady next door has a pile of cherry in her attic, free for my pick'en. I found a 4" x 9" x 8' block that was about 80yrs. old and dry. If your not this lucky stop by some old farms / barns I have always had luck. I prefere AMISH farmers if you have any around your area.
3) Use silica and exterior screws to bond stringers.
4) Notice I DID NOT place stringers side by side, but on top of one another. I did not want to screw into a joint when anchoring in the new engine mounts.
5) I epoxied and wraped in glass prior to install. Hope no chance of water gett'en inside wood.
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Got a quick coat of pain and finished most of the glass work. Now I just need to finish triming the old ply floor out from the edges, then I can start pouring some foam.
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I found where the boat was taken on water! I have 4" through hull exhausts, and it looks like was leaking around the old seal. this is the inside port exhaust hole.
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This picture is a little better! I now trimed the entire section away from inside out. Will replace with 3/4 BC ply with much glass.
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POure foam by heating over heater prior then used heatr lamps in boat. Outside temp. was 38F and I got it up to 85F inside the boat with lamps. I think I got full expansion worked well.
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sitting in the garage waiting for spring and more glass along with new interior. This has been my work area this winter. Had to install 9' door in order to squeeze her in. Wife not to happy because I had just bought new 8' door about two years ago.
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cleaning up edges where new floor will meet. Got a new power steering unit need to replace next. Wiating for more glass to come.
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rear floor 3/4 BC Ply......I F@*^#@up my first cut and waisted $35.00 sheet my first try. To many beers !!!!!!! I'll find a use for the waist!
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Loaded the interior seats and panels...I hope my boy is ready ! Tak'en them over tonight 3-2-06. Quoted appx. $1200-1400.00 Bones.
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The old rear seat
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This is what I planed for the new interior. The outside green will be painted to match the interior.
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This is my new port side transome area where the through hull exh. will go. I used silica to bond the ply to the inner skin. I also painted the 3/4 bc with epoxy.
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Here is the rear section of floor placed in. I used lock-tight adhesive to bond strinders and stransome. Also used stanless square head finsh screws to attach to stringers. This pulls the ply even if you have any warp (adjust the screws to pull ply up or down). I then used silica and butter to bond to the bulkhead (sides).
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New gas hose and all new wiring for tank. I also foamed around upper part of tank to make a snug fit. The tank has a nice clean air space in bottom.
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Installing second Pcs. of flooring. Again all is secured with adhesive or silica and stanless screws.
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Prior to laying mid section of floor I installed 2x6 for support over tank. All is glassed. You can see I poured some foam and shaved to floor. I used extra foam that was away on sides. I then drilled 2" holes and poured foam in untill it filled area.
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Floor is now almost completed I painted with epoxy and then sanded then claened then glassed. I started to used 5200 and 3M Marine silicone to bond stringers and floor. Still using stanless screws. Looks good to me. I hope no water can find it's way under the floor?
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Used alot of butter to bond gaps, also poured foam untill it came through the cracks. Citation Inc. did not foam this far up to the cabin.
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Wires are exposed and some disc. from alternator. Not sure if I need a new alt. or whats the deal. Hope you guys can help. I did notice that the battery was always almost dead?
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Engine is ready and starting to back the boat under
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Engine is in with no issues and started without a problem. I did replace the alternator with a mando 65amp. I've installed an actuator for the hatch lift. All seats are in and looking good.
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Went to Lowes and purchased marine carpet @ 4.27 ft. what a deal! I used indoor outdoor carpet glue (Good Stuff). I was in such a hurry to get everything in I forgot to take pics.
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I used stanless for the dash and brushed the surface with a wire wheel. I did the same to the base of the chair mounts, and they came out looking better than new. I have a few small details to go over but it's almost complete.
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Sanded the old green paint and this is the second coat of blue. I'm using the roll-tip method. I've gotten a few sags so will have to sand it down with 400grit and try again. Using the 3m blue painters tape (works the best).
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